The Unofficial Airfix Modellers' Forum

Eric Mc wrote: My canopy glue of choice is Pacer 500 - which is a white PVA glue - but stronger than most glues of that type..

Do you mean?:
http://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Formula-560 ... B0006O8EVM;

I'm now using Glue'n'Glaze. Again, it's a thick white PVA. It has the right consistency to glaze quite large windows too.

cheers

Andrew

So, am I to understand that model glue will not fog up clear parts after they have been floor waxed? Would like to know before I embark on a sketchy mission to cement said transparencies to the model.

Regular model plastic glue wont fog clear parts. Superglue will. Once Klear is put on it reduces the chance of fogging. It can still happen. But, it will be less and easily corrected, by giving another coat of Klear.
Its the fumes which do the fogging. To reduce it even more I let the part with superglue on it sit for a few moments till the fresh fumes are away. Then I sometimes blow on the part as I position it.
If in doubt; use waterproof PVA glue. Its strong enough, and wont damage or fog parts at all.

fredk wrote:Regular model plastic glue wont fog clear parts.

True, it won't fog them. What it will do, is mess up the whole structure of the plastic and turn it non-transparent right to the core of the plastic, and ruin the parts completely. If you treat the parts with some barrier coat first, the glue won't even reach the part (unless it eats though the barrier), and be ineffective. Regular plastic glues are not what you want for this. Back in the days when this was the only glue in my arsenal, I lost more than a few canopies to this.
When in doubt, grab a piece of transparent sprue, and hit it with a generous dose of glue. If it's still clear two days later, you're in business, if not, you've been warned..

That is awesome advice from all of you. thanks. Yes, I have used PVA or Elmer's white glue for clear parts for years. And after much elbow grease. sanding and polishing with cotton cloth and tooth paste I have managed to rehabilitate a few of the old model glued canopies, although I have to paint the canopy framing on them after. Was hoping to know if using floor waxed clear parts would take it. Forewarned indeed. Cheers.

I'm a fan of the Hypo cement like wbk666 showed. It sticks brilliantly, sets in a jiff & uses the tiniest amount possible to do the job, which the needle applicator makes easy to apply. Obviously use in a vented area but the amounts used are small & I can honestly say I've not been aware of any smell with it so not especially volatile. It happily sticks a small piece of clear packaging to a painted mount to make a gunsite reflector screen, no probs.
Steve.